I am on a bit of a pasta jag at the moment. Let’s be honest though -when, with kids am I not? I say: “Eat pasta and be proud!”. Since going back to school we have been through a Ragù phase, a pesto revival phase, an orecchiette ai broccoli phase (and all the brassicas in between), there is never a week that passes that I don’t have classic red sugo in the fridge ready to furnish my kids’ hot pots for school… I have done pasta al forno and all manner of seafood pasta. But even I recall that here in England there was a time when pasta was considered exotic. When I started being served it at playdates in the 80s in place of meat and two veg it was seen as groundbreaking, modern and sophitiqué yet also practical, tasty and quick to prepare. It was a true case of how did we ever manage without it. It was basically the denim jean of culinary traditions. There were also aberrations like alphabetti-spaghetti and spaghetti hoops which would make my parents recoil in horror, but which I remember all of us kids universally liking at the time. Those mass-produced tinned monstrosities were proof that pasta was hitting the mainstream, that it was a ‘legit’ food. But then, along with sun-dried tomatoes (bleurghh!!), low-fat diets and white processed carb-based meals, pasta kinda lost its A-list celebrity status (outside the family-cooking arena at least). Just like how the mum-jean ushered in the combat trouser uniform, suddenly we all turned against the tide, saw fault in it becoming suspicious of pasta, bread, all types of starch. But just as jeans will be with us forever, just in reworked and improved, more lightweight iterations, I think there is a place for pasta, not just classic wheat past, and it is here to stay. Even in Italy (if you ask me – and Massimo Bottura – one of the most gastronomically conservative countries in the world) I see change. Pasta still features very regularly on my relatives’ tables but it is not necessarily served up every single day (revolutionary I know!), and when they do indulge, they now try and savour it and are quite careful to limit their serving size. The spectre of type II diabetes and diet-led disease is top of mind across all cultures it seems. Even more recently I have been amazed how such a closed culinary tradition has allowed kamut and gluten-free pasta in to the mainstream – no-one even bats an eye when these are available at restaurants these days.
Really I wanted to write this post because …
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